MADRI – The tapas bar is to the Spanish what the bar is to the person from Minas Gerais. It’s a personality trait, a meeting point for drinks, and the certainty of cozy food away from home. Almost like a second marriage.
The relationship is so serious that traditional neighborhood establishments, where the waiter is called by name and the recipes are from ‘abuela’, have been dubbed “bars of all life”.
There is even a plea for patatas bravas (thick fried potatoes with spicy sauce), croquetas (croquettes), and company to be recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
It is no surprise, then, that with the increase in tourism in Spain – the country was the second most visited in the world in 2023 – a place in the most famous “barras” (counters) of Madrid is highly sought after… for tapas.
Especially considering that the dynamic coincides (and feeds back) with the boom of ‘fine dining’ and mixology in the country.
According to the 50 Best awards, 3 out of the top 4 restaurants in the world are Spanish, as well as 2 out of the top 4 bars.
But do not be fooled by the growth in offerings and waiting lines. Not every corner holds a good gastronomic experience.
This is because, on one hand, there is a growing number of places offering menus in English, a good option for Instagram – and little more.
On the other hand, the surge in real estate prices has reduced the availability of ‘castiças’ taverns, which have less tourist appeal and little room to deal with price increases.
To avoid tourist traps and enjoy some of the best snacks and stories in the city, check out a selection of places compiled from local critics’ opinions – and visited by the Brazil Journal.
Oh, and if you want a small beer to go with it, ask for a ‘caña’. If you’re thirsty, go for a ‘double’ (larger) or even a ‘triple’ (even larger). A ‘vermú’ (vermouth) also goes well, as does a tinto de verano (wine with lemon soda) if it’s hot.
CLASSICS
FIDE Cervecería & Marisquería (image above) – For those who appreciate fresh and preserved fish and seafood, this bar is a must-visit.
There, diners line up for ‘cañas’ and devour standing up, around a large counter, portions like ‘boquerones en vinagre’ (marinated fresh anchovies) or pinchos (canapés) of bonito del norte (a type of tuna) and cod liver. It’s hard to believe that Madrid is 300 kilometers away from the sea. Focus on the ingredients and simple seasoning, without hiding anything. Calle de Bretón de los Herreros, 17, Chamberí.
Melo’s – After 40 years serving croquetas and ‘zapatillas’ (sandwiches with tetilla cheese and lacón ham) in downtown Madrid, the bar was once closed during the pandemic, but was resurrected by three young people who grew up frequenting the business.
And it’s not hard to understand why. Despite being dry, it’s clear that the croqueta crust does a herculean job to hold a generous amount of filling (based on jamón and bechamel) inside. The trick is to bite quickly to end the suffering of the poor thing. Very creamy.
The portions of manchego cheese with marmalade also pair very well. Calle del Ave María, 44, Centro (Lavapiés), 28012; Calle Andrés Mellado, 16, Chamberí.
Strategic Stops: Near the Puerta de Sol, a square in the city center, is Casa Labra (image above), which has been there since 1860. Stand outside and order the croquetas or tajadas (breaded cod chunks) there. Absurd breading and tasty filling. Calle de Tetuán, 12, Centro.
If symptoms persist, Bar La Ideal is a 5-minute walk away, right next to Plaza Mayor, and serves one of the most traditional bocadillos de calamares (French bread filled with breaded squid rings) in the city. Ask for mayonnaise to go with it.Calle de Botoneras, 4, Centro.
Another century-old good choice is Bodega de La Ardosa (image below), in operation since 1892 in Chueca. As expected, their tortilla starts with the flavor and texture of an omelet and transforms into a creamy potato salad in your mouth. Calle de Colón, 13, Centro.
For more distant forays from the city center, consider: The Cervecería Alonso‘s torreznos (pork cracklings).Calle de Gabriel Lobo, 18, Chamartín; The Taberna Delfín‘s callos (tripe stew).Calle de Eugenio Caxes, 12, Usera; Or the Astral Café‘s huevos estrellados (fried eggs with black truffles served on a bed of French fries).Camino Viejo de Leganés, 82, Carabanchel.
UPSCALE
Bar H Emblemático – From the same owners of the Hevia restaurant, a traditional house in the upscale Salamanca neighborhood, Emblemático was born elegant and crowded. But the food makes you stay. It’s recommended to venture into pinchos, molletes (sandwiches), patatas bravas, and, especially, mejillones tigre (mussels breaded with shell and all and bechamel sauce). Eat the filling with a spoon and then devour the shell. C. de Castelló, 83, Salamanca.
Hermanos Vinagre – A network of trendy bars that could easily have been conceived in a neighborhood like Pinheiros. There, fish and seafood shine in partnership with escabeche (vinegar-based sauce).
It’s also a good place to try gilda: piparra (mild green pepper, typical of the Basque Country), marinated anchovy, and green olives skewered on a stick and bathed in olive oil. Calle del Cardenal Cisneros, 26, Chamberí, and three more locations.
Strategic Stops: In the Retiro area, overlooking the homonymous park, treat yourself to an ensaladilla (potato salad with vegetables, eggs, and fish) at Manero (image below). Calle de Claudio Coello, 3, Retiro.
The award-winning croquetas from Neotaberna Santerra are also worth mentioning. Calle de Ponzano, 62, Chamberí; And critics never tire of praising Taberna Recreo, which has a skewer of broccoli, kimchi (Korean fermented cabbage), and lime as one of its most hyped tapas. Calle de Espartinas, 5, Salamanca.
TRADITIONAL, BUT…
Despite being references in certain dishes, some visited establishments were less pleasing.
For example, Casa Dani is still a must-visit place to eat tortilla in the Salamanca region. Besides the creaminess of the dish, the sweetness of the caramelized onion in the filling is almost shocking. But the generic and impersonal decoration of the dining room, also seen in other renowned spaces, like Las Bravas, doesn’t do justice to the tradition of the place and is not very inviting. Calle de Ayala, 28B, Salamanca.
On the other hand, Docamar, a reference in patatas bravas, forces you to eat with your phone’s alarm set.
The restaurant has a sign on the door saying that, if it’s full, they may kick you out after 90 minutes. Despite the inconvenience, the ‘salsa brava’ produced there has more nuance than the competition, with spiciness, acidity, and a hint of tomato. Calle de Alcalá, 337, Ciudad Lineal.
Source
Arwen Volkov, A graduate of the University of St. Gallen in Switzerland with a degree in International Finance, Arwen specializes in sustainable finance and green investments. She began her career at an investment bank in London, where she developed financing models for environmentally friendly projects. Known for her analytical and strategic thinking skills, Arwen is a sought-after financial consultant. In her spare time, she mentors fintech startups, contributing to their growth strategies. She is also a nature enthusiast and an amateur photographer.
